Minnesota’s North Shore
Waterfalls, pink-rock beaches, small towns, family time and a lot of pie along Lake Superior.
When I think about the trips I naturally gravitate toward, they usually involve cities, great restaurants, neighborhood markets, and plenty of places to explore. A week centered around hiking, kayaking, and the shores of Lake Superior probably wouldn't have been the first vacation I planned for myself.
But sometimes the reason for a trip matters just as much as the destination.
Last June, our family headed to Minnesota's North Shore for a family reunion and to celebrate my sister and brother in law's 50th wedding anniversary. My immediate family joined Mike's siblings and their families for a week together and somewhere between the waterfalls, dramatic bluffs, Lake Superior views, and more than a few slices of pie, this decidedly nature focused vacation started to change my perspective.
I may not be giving up my city trips anytime soon, but I've discovered there might be room for an occasional nature vacation, too.
Getting to Minnesota's North Shore
One thing that surprised me was how accessible the North Shore can be.
Most of my family made the roughly eight-hour drive from Chicago, while I flew into Duluth International Airport and met them there. The airport was small, easy to navigate, and made the trip much more manageable for someone who doesn't necessarily consider eight hours in the car a fun part of vacation.
We didn't spend much time exploring Duluth together, although other members of our family did and particularly enjoyed learning more about the area at one of the local museums.
From Duluth, we continued north along Lake Superior and made Two Harbors our home base for the week.
Our Home Base
The Fitzgerald Manor
We stayed at The Fitzgerald Manor, a bed-and-breakfast in Two Harbors.
This was my first visit, and two things stood out immediately: the hospitality and the breakfasts.
There's something about staying at a B&B that can change the pace of a trip. Instead of rushing out the door each morning, breakfast became part of the experience. And because this trip was ultimately about spending time with family, having a welcoming home base complemented the reason we were there.
The innkeepers also became a source of local knowledge which led us to what would become my favorite discovery of the entire trip.
Pro Tip: If you stay on a Sunday, Becky, one of the innkeepers makes an amazing spiced coffee!
Listen to the Locals!
One of the owners of The Fitzgerald Manor, Becky, recommended that we visit Iona's Beach.
The beach is known for its smooth pink rhyolite stones, which create an unusual sound as Lake Superior's waves move them along the shoreline.
At least, they're supposed to.
We arrived, found what we thought was the right spot...and heard nothing.
For a moment, we wondered if we'd misunderstood what we were looking for. Eventually, we realized we simply hadn't walked far enough.
And then we heard it.
As the waves came in, they lifted the smooth stones and then pulled back, allowing them to settle against one another with a gentle, almost musical sound.
It was peaceful and completely unexpected.
It was one of those travel experiences that's difficult to capture in a photograph and one I'll remember far longer than many places I've intentionally set out to see.
Waterfalls, Wildlife and Lake Superior Views
The scenery was probably the biggest surprise of the trip for me.
I hadn't fully appreciated just how dramatic Minnesota's Lake Superior coastline could be. The combination of water, forests, rocky shoreline, and towering bluffs made each day feel different.
One of my favorite places to explore was Gooseberry Falls State Park. There are plenty of hiking trails, making it easy to tailor your visit to how active you want to be. And during our visit, we even spotted a bald eagle, which made an already beautiful day particularly memorable.
We also visited Palisade Head, Split Rock Lighthouse, and spent time exploring the waterfront around Two Harbors.
But one of my other favorite experiences put us directly on the lake.
Kayaking Burlington Bay
We rented kayaks in Burlington Bay, and it ended up being one of the highlights of the week.
The kayaking itself was easy to navigate and approachable even if you aren't someone who spends every weekend paddling. We were fortunate to have good conditions on the day we went - the following couple of days were much choppier and wouldn't have been nearly as enjoyable.
That reinforced an important lesson when planning activities around Lake Superior - listen to the locals and pay attention to water and weather conditions.
A beautiful lake can change quickly.
And then there was PIE…
A family vacation isn't complete without a culinary mission, and ours became pie.
We made the obligatory stop (well, let’s be honest…. multiple stops) at the well-known Betty's Pies and took our research quite seriously. Between us, we sampled mixed berry, French cherry, French blueberry, rhubarb raspberry and five layer chocolate which was probably enough pie to qualify this as a legitimate tasting exercise.
But then we discovered the Rustic Inn Café (another recommendation from the owners of the B&B)!
And… we had a winner.
Their upside down lemon meringue pie completely changed the rankings. Instead of a traditional pastry crust, the meringue itself formed the crust, topped with tart lemon curd and whipped cream.
It was unusual, delicious, and gluten-free.
Rustic Inn Café won our family pie competition, hands down.
I’m still talking about this pie long after our vacation ended!
Who Would I Send to the Minnesota North Shore?
Minnesota's North Shore isn't going to be the right vacation for everyone (and I don't think every destination needs to be).
I'd particularly recommend it to travelers who enjoy cooler summer weather and an active vacation. Hiking, kayaking, waterfalls, scenic drives, and time outdoors are very much part of the experience.
It's also a wonderful setting for a family or multigenerational trip when the goal is to spend time together rather than fill every day with scheduled activities.
And if your ideal vacation normally involves a restaurant reservation and a city neighborhood rather than hiking shoes?
I understand.
I was that traveler, too.
Sometimes a Trip Changes What You Think You Like
I'm still not sure a nature focused vacation will ever become my every vacation style.
I love cities.
I love food.
I love wandering through a market and discovering a neighborhood café.
But the North Shore reminded me that I don't have to choose.
There was something wonderful about spending a week outside, being active, discovering a completely different landscape, and, most importantly, having time to connect with family.
It shifted my perspective - maybe I just need an occasional vacation that gets me outdoors.
And a good B&B and an excellent slice of pie don't hurt either.
Stay tuned... I'm putting this newfound appreciation for the outdoors to the test with an outdoorsy birthday getaway later this year!
